Tips when buying a used car

When buying a used car the road test is the most important element,
as it highlights all the major faults of the most expensive items.

When you start the car note and memorize the indicated oil pressure.

Make sure that there is enough fuel in the fuel tank to test the car for
at least 10 miles.

The best way to carry out a road test is to drive the car on a quiet
road where the car can reach the highest legal maximum speed.

While driving the car, frequently check in the rear view mirror for signs
of smoke when accelerating, if you observe black smoke, it indicates
heavy fuel consumption and blue smoke is a sure sign of oil usage.

If the steering wheel or the car vibrates, either the drive shaft (on
rear wheel drive cars) or the tires is out of balance and will have to be
balanced.

When braking does the brake pedal pulsate under your foot? If it does,
the front brake discs will have to be skimmed (It must be done on the
car) and new brake pads must be fitted.

When braking does the car pull to one side? If it does, there is brake
fluid and or grease on the brake pads of the opposite side.

If you hear a persistent grumbling noise that subsides when you turn
the steering wheel momentarily left and right, and the grumbling noise
reappear when you turn the steering wheel back, then the wheel
bearings of one or both front wheels will have to be replaced.

After driving the car for about 3 miles the heat gauge should indicate
normal operating temperature, if it does not, the thermostat may have
been removed. Operating an engine without a thermostat will result in
excessive engine wear.

Test the heater and air conditioner to determine if they are operating
as they should. If not they will have to be repaired.

When you have done 5 miles, stop the car, apply the hand or parking
brake, select top gear and try to pull away, if the engine stalls the
clutch is still fine, but if the engine picks up speed and the car does
not move, the clutch will have to be overhauled.

Select first gear and with the hand or parking brake still applied, try to
pull away again, if you can, the brakes will have to be repaired.

Release the hand or parking brake and pull away, if the clutch judders
when you pull away, the flywheel and pressure plate will have to be
skimmed and the clutch plate and rear main bearing oil seal must also
be replaced.

Proceed to the dealers premises, on the return trip the transmission
and rear axle oil should have warmed up enough to show up any
problems.

Pick up speed and change the gears rapidly through the range, take
your foot off the accelerator pedal and change the gears down, there
should be no crunching of the gears when changing them up or down,
if they do, the transmission will have to be overhauled.

If the gear lever kicks out of any selected gear under acceleration or
deceleration, the gearbox will have to be overhauled.

If the car is a front or four wheel drive vehicle, check the constant
velocity joints by searching for an open space where you can drive the
car around in full circles.

Stop the car and turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, select
first gear, pull away and complete two full circles. Stop the car, turn
the steering wheel all the way to the right and repeat the test.

If you hear a clack, clack sound on one or both sides, the constant
Velocity joint on the side that made the noise must be replaced.

If you hear a high pitch whining sound on the return trip at certain
speeds and the whining subsides when you take your foot off the
accelerator pedal, but return when you again accelerate to maintain
speed, the rear axle will have to be overhauled.

When you take your hands off the steering wheel and the car pull to
one side, the wheel alignment must be corrected.

When you reach the dealers premises, park the car but do not switch
off the ignition, let the engine idle.

If the engines oil warning light flickers on and off, or if the indicated
oil pressure is now lower than two thirds of the previously indicated
pressure when you started the engine, it indicates that the engine
will shortly be in need of a major overhaul.

With the engine still idling, get out of the car, put your one foot on
The accelerator pedal and look to the rear of the car, increase the
engine speed to 2750 rpm.

Hold it there for at least 60 seconds, if the engine uses oil, blue
smoke will start appearing from the exhaust tail pipe after 40 to 60
seconds.

Switch off the ignition and open the bonnet, check for water and oil
leaks. Pull out the engine oil dipstick and check the color of the oil, if
the oil has a white/grayish color there is definitely water in the oil.

Remove the oil filler cap and if there is a grey froth on the bottom of
The cap water is definitely leaking into the oil, there can be several
causes that will require immediate attention to find the source of the
leak.

Visually check the electrical wiring for open wires or different color
insulation tape, remove the fuse box cover and check the material
around the fuses for signs of melting. If any of the above prove to be
positive beware, electrical repairs can be very expensive.

Close the bonnet, look under the car to see if water or oil have leaked
out since you have parked the car.

You have now completed the road test.

If you have found any faults with the engine, transmission, rear axle
or any signs of accident damage repairs, do not consider buying this car,
as it may prove to be a “Lemon” that will bleed you dry.


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Pieter le Roux, a 40 year veteran used car mechanic will
take you by the hand and show you his proven method
of evaluating used cars. Using the “Used Car Guide”
that he is the author of, will save you money and keep
you from buying a “Lemon.” Visit his blog and print your
free copy. http://no-more-lemons.blogspot.com
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